Monterey's Salinas Valley is one of California's hottest cool-climate wine growing regions. A contradiction in terms, perhaps. But Pinot Noir from this AVA tend to be rich and very outgoing as a result. The Carmel Road Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir ’06 displays classic Pinot lucidity along with lovely aromas of rose petals and dried red pepper. Its soft, medium body offers up extracted flavors of crushed bing cherries, cola and red spices punctuated by lively acidity, supple tannins and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Yum.

While Rosé is produced worldwide, only Provence has the unique terroir and tradition to be its true passion. This shimmering, translucent pink beauty from Château de Pourcieux has a pleasant floral bouquet enhanced by notes of sliced watermelon. The broad palate has good weight and delivers a panoply of elegant red berry flavors and smooth minerality. Fresh, balanced, walking that fine line between soft fruit and pinpoint acidity. A natural with summer fare and with spicy cuisine year round.

Sourced 50-50 from New Zealand’s celebrated Tietjen and Leaderbrand vineyards, the ’06 edition of Kim Crawford SP Gisborne Chardonnay features an alluring bouquet of stone fruit and freshly sliced guava. Its plump, full body offers generous portions of lime, peach and tropical fruit flavors all nicely integrated with subtle wood accents. Ends with a persistent, complex finish. Here's a big, harmonious Chardonnay in an outgoing New Zealand style.

The dark ruby 2006 Sanford Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir was aged in French Oak barrels for 10 months. It’s a big, complex Pinot Noir with lovely floral aromatics and an expansive palate that offers up concentrated plum, black cherry and red spice flavors. The wine is chewy with good acidity and a classic Pinot finish that’s long, seductive and spicy. Ready to enjoy when you get it home, this winner will surely become even softer and more elegant over the next 3 or 4 years.

California’s Central Coast, and Paso Robles in particular, doesn’t get the coverage in the wine media it deserves. Pity, because the appellation has passionate producers who make very good wine. Case in point, EOS and the 2007 EOS Chardonnay. Leading with a gentle nose displaying a diffuse bouquet of pears and citrus zest, the medium body that follows is rich and nicely concentrated, featuring tiers of apple, apricot and limey flavors underlined by soft toasty oak. Bright, fresh and long, this is a well-crafted and satisfying Chardonnay. And did I mention it’s from Paso Robles?

Gavi, made from the Cortese grape, has long been a closely held secret in Piedmont where it’s an indigenous varietal and ubiquitous in homes and trattorias. The luminous straw-colored Principessa Gavi ’07 is light and clean on the palate, delivering tropical fruit, green apple and summer melon flavors, all backed by bracing acidity. Stylish and quite refreshing with a crisp dry finish, and a price tag that hovers just above ten dollars. Now you know what the Piedmont locals know – and one reason they’re always smiling.